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A VISITOR'S GUIDE-LINE TO VENICE, ITALY

to be read before leaving home and after

After visiting Venice some forty times we came to the conclusion that we had not really savoured enough of Renzo's birth place; so we decided to spend a month there, living more or less like Venetians: in a flat, shopping, walking, visiting and so on. We were right, we discovered that there is a lot more to Venice that generally meets the visitor's eye. Day by day a new Venice opened up in front of us; so we have decided to share with you some of our observations, certain that they will facilitate your own discovery of Venice, a bewildering, unique city without roads and with only traffic-free streets.

ADELE AND RENZO FANTONI, 1992 revised 8/98

VENICE IS DIFFERENT -
USEFUL INFORMATION & HINTS

ORIGINS

The islands of Venice commenced being inhabited about 1500 years ago by refugees from the mainland. Centuries ago it had many more islands, canals and bridges than nowadays, since then many canals have been filled-in, to create more living space, thus automatically reducing the number of islands and bridges. The STRADA NOVA, one of the main streets of Venice underwent this treatment as recently as 1867. Now there are about 120 islands, 150 canals and 400 bridges. You may find in various guides different statistics, but please accept them as given, nobody seems to know exactly how many, islands, canals and bridges exist in Venice.....and in any case does it really matter ?

SESTIERI

Venice proper is divided into six sectors called SESTIERI, three on the one bank of the Grand Canal: CANNAREGIO, SAN MARCO and CASTELLO, and three on the other: SANTA CROCE, SAN POLO, DORSODURO. It is interesting to note that the iron at the front of the gondolas depicts by its half rounded top the bridge of Rialto, the six frontal spikes represent the six SESTIERI, the complex of islands of SPINALUNGA now called GIUDECCA is part of DORSODURO but because of its location is represented by the back facing spur.

ADDRESSES

Many addresses give only the name of the SESTIERE and a number, that is because each SESTIERE has its own postal numeration which runs from 1 up 6000 and is generally easy to follow. Spelling of place names may vary from one end of the street to the other, that is because sometimes they are in old Venetian, modern Venetian or in Italian.

TRANSPORTATION

The waterways are the roads of Venice, and are used to transport: people, goods, supplies, equipment and by all the services such as: funeral, fire, police, ambulance, refuse collection and to celebrate weddings and festivals.

A limited number of wheels are used in Venice: push-chairs for children, wheelchairs for disabled people, also the specially designed four-wheeled trolleys which can negotiate the bridges and steps, used to carry goods or luggage from the landing stages to their destination.

Basically the transport system of Venice has not changed much, if one sets aside the fact that in medieval times horses were in use, as recalled by several places called CAVALLO (horse) or its derivative, the only difference is that there are many motorised boats to complement the traditional rowing types; nonetheless the gondola still reigns supreme as the symbol of Venice, and a gondola ride still gives much pleasure to many tourists.

It should not be too difficult to find one's way around Venice. How you will reach your hotel on arrival depends on whether you have travelled by air, train or car; your agent should advise you before you leave in which part of Venice your hotel is located..

There are many year-round water-bus lines serving Venice and the surrounding islands plus four seasonal ones. On your arrival you may be concerned only with the two main Lines 1 and 52, which run all year round.

The landing stages are variously called PONTILI, APPRODI or IMBARCADERI. To simplify matters we shall call them from now on: PONTILE or PONTILI in the plural.

LINEA 1 ''ACCELERATO''

operates VAPORETTI (water buses) painted pale cream/black carrying just over 220 passengers. It is a service which stops at each of the 20 or so PONTILI. It runs all year and its route goes from PIAZZALE ROMA along the Grand Canal via SAN MARCO to the LIDO OF VENICE and then returns by the same route, so take care that it is convenient for your destination and that the boat you board goes in the direction you require as indicated at the entrance to the PONTILE. It is rather slow but it may stop very close to your hotel; another advantage of using this route is that you enjoy at leisure the sights of the beautiful PALAZZI (palaces) on both sides of the GRAND CANAL.

LINEA 52 and 52 ''DIRETTO''

operate MOTOSCAFI (motorboats) painted white, carrying up to 160 passengers. It also goes from PIAZZALE ROMA to the LIDO, but via the CANALE DELLA GIUDECCA. It is a faster service than the LINEA 1. It also goes to MURANO passing the FONDAMENTA NUOVE. Again, be very careful to get the correct waterbus. If you do make a mistake you will not be able to get off very quickly, but you will gain spectacular views of other parts of Venice.

LINEA N "NOTTURNO LIDO"

is a night service operating between TRONCHETTO, PIAZZALE ROMA and the LIDO. It passes SAN ZACCARIA (near SAN MARCO) and both the CANAL GRANDE and CANALE DELLA GIUDECCA.

ARRIVALS

If you arrive in Venice by air and:

a) Your hotel is located close to SAN MARK'S SQUARE

you may take the MOTOSCAFO OF THE COOPERATIVA SAN MARCO (a 140 seat motorlaunch) from the airport directly to the terminal by the GIARDINETTI REALI at the MOLO by SAINT MARK'S SQUARE. It departs at roughly 1 hour intervals from 6.00 until midnight. The journey takes about one hour, it crosses the lagoon and the island of MURANO, stopping there and at the LIDO OF VENICE as required; in good weather, the magic of Venice is revealed to you as you approach it. It is relatively economic and fast and it is such a beautiful way to reach Venice that you may decide to use it even if your hotel is in a different area,

b) Your hotel is located around the railway station and the air terminal

you may take the bus which will deposit you at PIAZZALE ROMA, from there you may walk to your the hotel or take a VAPORETTO as suitable).

c) Your hotel is located away from the two aforementioned locations

you may arrive in Venice either by boat or bus and then take a water bus close to your destination.

If you arrive by train at the FERROVIA/STAZIONE DI SANTA LUCIA:

VAPORETTI and WATER-TAXIS to all destination have landing stages just on the FONDAMENTA (quay side) in front of the station steps. Hotel representatives are at hand, but accept their help only if you meet the one which represents your hotel or if you need a hotel reservation.

If you arrive by car:

You will reach the end of the road to Venice after the 7 miles long PONTE DELLA LIBERTA' which connects Venice to the mainland. There are two main pay-parking places; a large car park for 8000 cars and a covered garage at TRONCHETTO, and a covered garage with limited space at PIAZZALE ROMA. PIAZZALE ROMA is the place where all wheeled motorised traffic stops; hire car companies have their garages there, and all local autobuses to the mainland turn around there.

From THE TRONCHETTO, according to your destination, you can take either LINEA 1 or 34 or if you need the LINEA 2 go by regular water-bus to the PONTILE at PIAZZALE ROMA.

If however your hotel is on the LIDO you can take the car ferry directly from the TRONCHETTO.

Private water-taxis are also widely available, and rather expensive.

NOTES & HINTS:

1) PONTILI

PONTILI are used by services going in both directions, make sure you get on to the correct PONTILE and check that you get the vessel you want. You are not expected to go to the other side of any canal to catch your boat.

2) TICKETS

You are required to buy a full ticket for each passenger and each piece of large luggage.

Some of the ticket offices are not open very early in the morning, late at night, or Sundays; one can board the VAPORETTO or MOTOSCAFO and pay on board but there is a small fine. It may be advisable to buy a series of tickets that MUST be validated by a date machine available on each PONTILE, alternatively buy three-day or weekly passes.

3) For disabled persons

the Venetian authorities, recommend VAPORETTI as a suitable vessel to travel because of their size and the slow speed; the faster MOTOSCAFI are considered too dangerous. They have also published a map showing the monuments, cultural institutions and certain areas which are accessible by people in wheelchairs.

4) All water-bus stops

are marked with the name of the stop and some are also numbered in a sequence which starts at PIAZZALE ROMA. Some also list the places of interest close-by.

5) Porters

Wherever you arrive you may wish to employ a porter; their fees are regulated by the authorities, but always ask how much ''Quanto costa ?'' and if you think you are being overcharged discuss, before paying, the fee with your hotel hall porter.

6) Do not be persuaded by anybody to go to a different hotel from the one at which you have a reservation

because the original hotel, even if you cancel at the last moment, is entitled to charge you for the reserved accommodation and you may have to pay for two hotels!

GETTING AROUND

On arrival hotels should offer you the booklet ''UN OSPITE DI VENEZIA'' (A guest in Venice) edited in Italian & English and issued free by the HOTEL PORTERS' ASSOCIATION. If they do not, then ask for it as it contains useful information including a directory of fortnightly events and a small map; more detailed maps and guides are available from hotel porters, newsagents and book-shops.

All you have to do is to decide what you want to visit, study carefully the map, choose your route either by foot or by water bus, then..... ask the direction from the first Venetian you meet!!!

How can you recognise a Venetian?

They do not carry cameras, video cameras, maps or luggage; their umbrellas are usually of the long type, men may carry a newspaper and/or a briefcase; the older generation is generally carefully dressed, and the gentlemen give their arms to their ladies; the young ones are indistinguishable from young people all over the world, jeans being their uniform.

Venetians often walk in pairs and talk to each other vivaciously. In the bars, according to the time of the day, Venetians drink either espresso coffee or SPRITZ (wine with soda or lemonade and at times with Campari bitter). A Venetian will always answer a stranger in Italian but don't be downhearted if you understand only a little of the conversation amongst Venetians, they use a language which is more than a dialect having its own literature, plays and operas.

Venetians are very friendly and helpful, should they see that you are bewildered by their explanation and they have the time they will lead you to your destination or nearby, otherwise they may point out a direction and tell you to go ''Tutto diritto'' (straight ahead). If the place you want is particularly difficult to reach they will add ''E poi domandi ancora'' (and then ask again). For them it may be straight ahead, but you will soon discover that the route you follow has innumerable bends and you may start panicking, especially if you find that you have reached a bare wall or the edge of a canal without a bridge to cross. Stop and calmly retrace your steps, eventually you will find indications to put you on the correct route or somebody else to ask again.

Direction Signs

The Venetian authorities have carefully set up at strategic points, generally at first floor level, YELLOW arrowed direction signs for RIALTO, SAN MARCO, FERROVIA, ACCADEMIA, OSPEDALE, PIAZZALE ROMA etc. but do not be surprised if standing on a corner you will be faced by two arrows going in opposite directions indicating the same destination, they are both valid!!!

Venetians take gondolas only for weddings and funerals, but daily they use the TRAGHETTI (gondola ferries), six of which ply to and fro across the GRAND CANAL. A very busy TRAGHETTO is the one going across from CAMPO SANTA SOFIA off STRADA NOVA to the CAMPO PESCARIA at RIALTO where, in the morning, there is a most colourful and busy market for fish, fruit and vegetables.

Surprisingly the Grand Canal is served only by three bridges:

PONTE DEGLI SCALZI built in 1934, by the FERROVIA of SANTA LUCIA (railway station),

PONTE DI RIALTO, first built in the 12th century and finally completed in stone in the 1591, it is also the most imposing, with one beautiful bold arch which supports two rows of attractive shops facing the central walkway and two outer walkways,

PONTE DELL'ACCADEMIA by the ACCADEMIA DI BELLE ARTI was originally built in iron in 1854 and temporarily re-built in wood in 1932 and again in the 1980's.

There are four ways to reach Venice:

by sea, air, train and road; but when you have arrived there are only two ways to go around the town, by water or on foot. The advantage of the first is that you can enjoy at leisure the beauty of the city, taking innumerable photographs or hours of video. The advantage of the second, so long as you do not mind weaving your way through crowds of Venetians and visitors and walking up and down many of the 400 bridges, is that you may enjoy looking at the elegant shop windows offering local, national and international goods, but this diversion will automatically slow you down to the tempo of the town which, with all its apparent hustle and bustle, is walking pace. In other words, there is no way that you can rush through Venice .... unless you are a skilled Venetian !!!

APPRECIATING

Venice is living proof that the best things in life are free! Not all the works of art are in museums. Inside many of churches one can see works of art by famous artists such as: BASSANO, CANALETTO, CARPACCIO, GIORGIONE, GUARDI, LONGHI, TIEPOLO, TINTORETTO, TITIAN, VERROCCHIO and many more.

Fifteen centuries of architectural styles: ROMANESQUE, BYZANTINE, GOTHIC, VENETIAN GOTHIC, VENETIAN RENAISSANCE, BAROQUE, ROCOCO by CODUSSI, LONGHENA, SANSOVINO, PALLADIO, and, albeit rare, MODERN are intermingled and can be admired by all.

Venetian sights are not confined to eye-level, many beautiful unique details are found high up: elaborate chimneys, ALTANE (roof-top terraces and gardens) balconies, windows, friezes, family crests, commemorative inscriptions, frescoes, mosaics, lamps, shop signs.

Do not be too disappointed if you find that the church or palazzo you wish to visit is cocooned in wood or plastic, in fact you should rejoice, it means that another building is being restored to its former glory; the British should be particularly proud because much of the restoration is being carried out by the ''VENICE IN PERIL FUND'' (The British Committee for the Preservation of Venice) which has raised money for at least ten projects, amongst which are the restoration of the interior and exterior of the church MADONNA DELL'ORTO, the LOGGETTA DEL SANSOVINO (the open gallery at the base of the bell tower in St. Marks' Square), and the MOSAICS in the Basilica on the island of TORCELLO.

In 1998 the CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO (the bell tower of Saint Mark) was cocooned for restoration. It was originally build on roman foundations and in stark roman style beginning in the IX century and modified at various stages between the XII and the XVI centuries. The Golden angel was added in 1513 and its height and brightness served as a beacon to sailors. It was hit several times by lightning and shaken by various earthquakes, eventually it collapsed in on itself on the 14th July 1902 with no human loss. The only victim was the bell tower's guardian's cat, that had returned home, unaware of the danger. Legend says the angel fell standing at the entrance of the cathedral.

Many discussions were held on whether it should have been rebuilt, and in that case, in what style and where. Eventually the traditionalists won and it was rebuild "Dov'era e com'era" (where it was and as it was), the first stone being laid in 1903 and the new campanile was inaugurated on 25th April 1912 -Saint Mark's Day.

THE LIONS OF VENICE

The lion of Saint Mark has been the emblem of Venice ever since Saint Mark replaced Saint Theodore as the patron saint of Venice. It appears: on the Venetion flag, on churches, monuments and buildings. Sometimes the lion holds a sword, sometimes a flag, occasionally the Doges' ceremonial flag and almost all the time it carries a book, mostly open, showing the words of an angel to Mark when he had visited to the lagoon four centuries before the foundation of Venice, "PAX TIBI MARCE EVANGELISTA MEUS" (Peace unto thee Mark my Evangelist). At other times the book has no wording or is closed, indicating that Venice is ready to defend itself. The lion always represented the Serenissima or the Dominante (the two titles of the Republic of Venice).

Not all the lions look the same mostly because some were fashioned in Venice but many were war booty from all over the Mediterranean basin, in fact the two wingless large lions placed at either side of the entrance to the Arsenale were 'captured' from the Parthenon in Athens in 1685. Rumour has it that some even came from China as their features indicate. Most of Venice's lions reflect a different mood or a stance: the lion above the main gate of the ARSENALE has its paws on a blank open book that indicates the Venetians' readiness to wage war in defence of its independence.

On the RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI at SAN ZACCARIA is a large bronze statue of KING VICTOR EMANUEL II. The two lions featured as part of the groups on either side of the monument show a very different mood. The lion in the group looking in the direction of the ARSENALE lays at the foot of a bedraggled and defeated SERENISSIMA. It has a raging mood, its wings lowered, and is tearing at the chains of defeat.

The lion in the group facing the PIAZZETTA (the square) has successfully broken its chains, is roaring its triumph with elevated wings, squatting at the feet of a serene Venice, the lion's foot rests on the book which shows the figures of the successful referendum held in 1866, accepting the annexation of Venice to the newly formed Kingdom of Italy.

On the statue commemorating the hero DANIELE MANIN in CAMPO MANIN the lion has empty eye sockets, showing its sorrow for his death. Daniele Manin was the last president of the last Venetian Republic and his sarcophagus is placed on the outer wall of the Saint Mark's Cathedral by the PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI, the Square of the little pink marble lions, on whose back every Venetian child has been photographed.

The lion located on top of the column in the PIAZZETTA is probably the most controversial of all, the book lays flat and open but the front feet of the lion rest on it, probably indicating that it will not accept the dominance of the church, in fact Venice was excommunicated at least twice by the Popes.

Another example of the importance which the Venetians gave to the sovereignty of Venice is represented on the facade of the Doges' Palace and above the PORTA DELLA CARTA which leads into the Palace, in both cases the Doge appears with the lions of Saint Mark but he is kneeling in front of the lion indicating that the role of the Doge was to serve the Republic and not to dominate it.

Nowadays the powerful Republic has disappeared and the Venetians have replaced their love for the lion with love for its more peaceful diminutive cousin, the cat, thousands of which will be found in every nook and cranny of Venice and the islands, well fed by the locals and tourists alike.

On occasion your eyes will be met by the eyes of one or more cats perched on balconies, garden walls, trees; in fact you will meet well fed cats alone or in groups in practically every quiet CALLE (lane) or CAMPO (paved field frequently with an old POZZO [well] in the centre).

UNUSUAL SIGHTS AND CURIOSITIES

Venice offers many sights and the choice is bewildering. If one has only a short time available it may be advisable to join one or more of the walking tours of the city with a guide. Such visits are organised by various travel agents. Your hotel hall porter will be able to suggest some names and arrange the tours. After the tour you may wish to return to the same place and look again at leisure.

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE

Following the fire in 1997 that destroyed all but the facade a rebuilding programme is now under way sponsored in part by FIAT and contributions from all over the world. Opera performances meanwhile are taking place at other venues in Venice during winter and under canvas on the TRONCHETTO in summer.

LA SCALA DEL BOVOLO

(The snail's staircase) It is one of the hidden architectural treasures of Venice. It is a marble spiral staircase built in the XV century outside the palace of the Contarini family, subsequently nicknamed del BOVOLO. The palace is found in the small CORTE (courtyard) of the Maltese also called Risi, in the PARROCCHIA (parish) of San Paterniano. At first it is not easy to see it because it is behind railings and plants but the effort to find it is well worth while.

THE OLDEST PHARMACY

The Farmacia Ponci is found in Strada Nova almost opposite the church of Santa Fosca. It is built with beams in the Sansovino style, with XVII century dark walnut carved furniture and traditional characteristic majolica chemists' vases made in Venice in the XVIII century.

BACCARO

These are meeting places for the true Venetians - a mixture of the English pub where you meet the regulars, and a local bar, the difference is that there most people order CICHETTI and OMBRE DE VIN.

CICHETTI are little snacks that may be small open toasted sandwiches or small fried fish or octopus tentacles, squid rings, small sausages, mushrooms, etc.

OMBRA is a small measure of wine 1/8th of a litre. Piazza San Marco, like many other squares all over Europe used to be a market place. There the farmers would conclude their bargaining with the local merchants and to seal the agreement properly they drank this small measure of wine, but the wine merchants wanted to keep their bottles and barrels in a cool area so they stationed themselves in the OMBRA (shade) of the CAMPANILE DI SAN MARCO, thus the name for the small glass of wine.

LA VECIA COL VASO

(The old lady with the pot) Leaving Saint Mark's square passing under the TORRE DELL'OROLOGIO with the DUE MORI (two slaves wielding hammers to mark time on the bell), a very few meters into the MERCERIE there is a covered walkway on the left and just above the arch that leads to this dark street there is a stone bas-relief of an old lady leaning out of a window holding a pot (do not ask what kind). The story has it that one morning a group of rebels on horseback was crossing the Mercerie to go to the Doges' Palace to depose the Doge, the old lady heard the commotion and looked down while holding the heavy pot in her hands. One does not know if she dropped it because she had a fright or whether she had aimed it, but it hit the leader on his head and he fell. Seeing their leader on the ground his followers panicked and fled. The attempted revolt was halted. In gratitude the Venetians decided to commemorate the event, immortalising in stone the event where it happened.

VENETIAN JUSTICE

THE PLAQUES OF SHAME

When you visit the PALAZZO DUCALE (Doges' Palace) you will leave on the side facing the lagoon opposite the island of San Giorgio passing from the courtyard through an arcade. On both sides of this arcade there are marble plaques of various sizes; they record for posterity the names of officials of the SERENISSIMA REPUBBLICA (The Most Serene Republic, as Venice was known), who had taken advantage of their position to cheat the exchequer. Their names, misdeeds and penalties are recorded forever in stone.

THE COLUMNS OF MARCO and TODARO

Once, even when Renzo was a child, naughty little children were warned that they would end between MARCO E TODARO (Mark & Theodore). These are the two columns facing the lagoon in the PIAZZETTA by Saint Mark's Square. On top of one is the of figure Saint Theodore (TODARO the first patron of Venice), on top of the other is the lion of Saint Mark (MARCO the second and present patron of Venice). It was customary to behead murderers and traitors in the space between the two columns, thus the warning to little children.

EL POVARO FORNARETO

(the poor little baker)

High up on the side of Saint Mark's Cathedral facing the lagoon one may see a small shrine with a flickering red light, more visible at night. It commemorates the POVARO FORNARETO. He was a young bread carrier who was accused of having robbed a visitor to Venice. The evidence was considered strong enough to have him executed between MARCO E TODARO. After his death they found the real culprit and the authorities ordered the shrine to remember forever the injustice perpetrated against the POVARO FORNARETO.

FLOODING

for six months of the year you will find, at strategic points in the city, piles of metal trestles and planks of wood; they are not forgotten builders' debris, they are there to be erected as walking platforms during the seasonal high tides which submerge many parts of Venice at regular and irregular intervals. St. Marks' Square is a special case, it becomes submerged before other areas because under it still runs the CANALE BOTARIO which was interred when the BASILICA DI SAN MARCO and the PALAZZO DUCALE were built. When not in official use these platforms are put to other uses, not intended by the authorities, such as picnic tables by day-trippers and as stalls by unlicensed street vendors. Do not be alarmed if you hear "air-raid" type sirens; they are warning you that the high tide is expected to reach over 1.10 meters above the average sea level, thus flooding some parts of Venice, and another field day for the rubber boots salesmen.

SERIOUS WARNING

If you are caught by the high waters, under no circumstances be tempted, even if you see others doing so, to remove your shoes and walk barefoot. As soon as possible wash your feet and shoes carefully under plenty of fresh running water because the floodwater is saline.

TELEPHONE SERVICES

Generally hotels will charge the basic cost for telephone calls, but should you wish to call from public telephones (TELECOM) they are easily recognisable by their brilliant orange colour. They are scattered all over the city and are often found in clusters by the PONTILI. You may use either coins, 100, 200, 500 lire, but for long-distance calls it is more convenient to use a CARTA TELEFONICA (telephone card) valued either 5/10.000 lire, which can be purchased at shops indicated TABACCHI (tobacconist) where one can also purchase, stamps, matches, cigarettes, cigarette lighters, salt; all things that are considered MONOPOLY OF THE STATE i.e. subject to special tax.

CURRENCY

Your Lire are generally better purchased in Britain before leaving because you may get a better exchange rate. Of course you will have no problems in exchanging your Pound Stirling or travellers cheques in Venice; money exchange bureaux exhibit the exchange rates in the window, some charge a commission and some do not, but what may seem a good rate may not be so once the commission has been reckoned, therefore do your calculations before finalising the transaction. Major credit cards are accepted in most places.

VENETIAN FOOD

Is rather different from other parts of Italy. The staple diet of the Venetian used to be: fish, rice and POLENTA (ground maize boiled into a solid porridge). Nowadays other foods have been introduced but some of the following traditional specialities should be savoured whilst in Venice:

POLENTA E FEGATO A LA VENESIANA: polenta accompanied by liver and onions cooked in deep oil
POLENTA E FRITO MISTO CON SALATINA: polenta served with mixed Adriatic fried fish and salad
POLENTA E BACCALA' MANTECATO or
POLENTA CON BACCALA' ALLA VISENTINA: dried cod reconstituted and prepared in a variety of tasty dishes
POLENTA E SEPE IN TOCETO: polenta with cuttle fish cooked in its own ink
RISOTTO: is served as a first course of dense rice cooked with many and various ingredients:
PASTA: of all types can be served with the same ingredients as RISOTTO,
some are:

So many restaurants serve pasta, rice and polenta with vegetable and fruit sauces that a vegetarian should not have any difficulty in selecting preferred dishes.

Venetian dishes can be accompanied by a variety of good red and white local wines such as: Merlot, Valpolicella, Cabernet, Soave, Pinot; a favourite is Prosecco, a sparkling dry white wine, which is offered and drunk by the Venetian with or without food at any time of the day or night on any pretext.

Many hotels have good restaurants but for variety you will find any number of large and small restaurants, snack bars, pizzerias, which will offer either elaborate a' la carte dishes and/or reasonably priced set menus.

RESTAURANTS

We have enjoyed eating in a variety of places amongst which we can suggest the following restaurants which are listed only in a loose geographical sequence from CANNAREGIO to CASTELLO. The prices are given only as a guideline and do not include drinks. Note that even though a weekly closing day is given for each restaurant any of them may open every day during the summer months.

When you pay a bill in a restaurant, hotel or shop demand a RICEVUTA FISCALE (VAT receipt). In the street you may be asked to produce it to Tax Officers, and should you not have it, you and the suppliers may be fined.

RISTORANTE PAPAGENO

Considered the best restaurant in LISTA DI SPAGNA close to the Venice Casino', a good selection of imaginatively prepared Venetian and international dishes are served in the modern restaurant or, in fine weather, on the patio overlooking the pleasant garden. The a' la carte menu and fixed price menus.

LISTA DI SPAGNA, 225A/226 CANNAREGIO, tel. 041715610. closes Wednesday.

RISTORANTE IL MELOGRANO

Connected to the Hesperia Hotel, situated close to the CANALE DI CANNAREGIO and the PONTE DELLE GUGLIE, is an intimate restaurant seating 40, plus outdoor seating in summer. Serves delicately prepared new and traditional, but nowadays seldom offered, Venetian dishes.

CALLE PESARO, 459 CANNAREGIO, tel. 041715251. closes Monday.

RISTORANTE COLOMBO

Famous since the 18th century, between CAMPO SAN LUCA and the FONDAMENTA DEL CARBON at RIALTO behind the TEATRO GOLDONI, air-conditioned. In summer meals are served outside in the charming CORTE DEL TEATRO, has excellent Venetian and international cuisine.

CORTE DEL TEATRO, SAN MARCO 4619, tel. 0415222627. closes Monday.

RISTORANTE ANTICO PIGNOLO

The ideal meeting place for lunch or dinner, it offers traditional Venetian dishes and international cuisine accompanied by prestigious wines.

CALLE SPECCHIERI 451, S. MARCO tel. 0415228123

RISTORANTE DA RAFFAELE

traditional Venetian food is served in colourful rooms, recalling a rustic hostelry, with a collection of armour and a large fireplace; another room overlooks the canal. In summer meals can be consumed in the open by the local canal, at times unwittingly serenaded by passing gondoliers. A wide variety of courses is available from the fixed price and a' la carte menus.

PONTE DELLE OSTREGHE, 2347 SAN MARCO, tel. 0415232317. closes Thursday.

RISTORANTE TERRAZZA ALLA PRINCIPESSA

connected to the Hotel Savoia & Iolanda, is a large airy restaurant and terrace on the RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI near the BRIDGE OF SIGHS, overlooking the lagoon, where in good weather one can enjoy meals watching the world go by; it offers a variety of Venetian dishes either at a fixed price or a' la carte menus. The open-air part doubles as a bar for snacks, ice-creams and beverages.

RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI, 4187 CASTELLO, tel. 0415206644. closes Tuesday.

RISTORANTE LES DEUX LIONS

of the Hotel Londra Palace. An evening rendezvous with a piano-bar for those who love a large selection of French and Venetian dishes; unusual snacks are served during the day. In good weather tables are set up on the RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI facing the ISLAND OF SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE. Note at the entrance the two lions representing MOLIERE and GOLDONI or French and Venetian cultures. Dinners reservations are advisable.

RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI 4171 CASTELLO tel. 0415200533. closes Tuesday.

HOSTARIA DA FRANZ

Located in the oldest part of Venice, CASTELLO close to the ARSENALE, intimate atmosphere seats only 40, very high quality air-conditioned fish restaurant, with home made desserts and ice-creams, in summer tables are set up by the charming canal facing the church of SAN ISEPO. It is advisable to telephone this family run restaurant for reservations.

VAPORETTO LINEA 1 at PONTILE N.17 GIARDINI FONDAMENTA SAN ISEPO, 754 CASTELLO tel. 0415220861. closes Tuesday.

USEFUL INFORMATION, ADDRESSES AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS:

Dorsoduro 1051, (near ACCADEMIA BRIDGE) tel. 0415227207; tel. 113; tel. 0415230000; to keep in touch with news from home and abroad take with you a short wave radio, the WORLD SERVICE OF THE BBC can be received at any of the following wavelengths in kHz at different time of the day:

P.S. After your visit to Venice we believe you will find that there is a great deal that you have not had time to see. Be encouraged by our experience - we have found, after forty visits and a stay of one month, that we still have a lot more to discover in Venice.
We shall return. (in fact since 1991 we have returned 15 times)
We trust that you will too....

ADELE AND RENZO FANTONI, 1992

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